After the Flood: Cleanup, Mould and Insurance

The flood is the short part. Recovery is months, and most of the outcome is decided in the first forty-eight hours — by how fast things dry, what you photograph before you move it, and whether you accept early that some things cannot be saved.
The clock that matters is mould. Given moisture and warmth, mould can establish within about 48 hours, and once it is into plasterboard and insulation the job stops being cleaning and becomes demolition.
The 10-minute version
- Photograph and film everything before you move or throw out anything. Insurers settle on evidence, and cleanup destroys it.
- Get it dry inside 48 hours. Air movement and dehumidification, not just wiping. After that you are managing mould rather than preventing it.
- Floodwater is contaminated. Gloves, boots, P2 mask and eye protection, and throw out anything porous that got wet.
The first 48 hours, in order
1. Do not go back until it is safe. Wait for official advice. Hazards are live wires, gas, sinkholes, snakes and displaced wildlife, and structural damage.
2. Turn off power at the board before entering wet areas, and do not use anything electrical that has been wet until an electrician clears it.
3. Photograph before touching anything. Every room, wide and close, the tide mark on the walls, every damaged item, the contents of cupboards and the garage. Film a narrated walk-through. This is the single most valuable half hour of the recovery.
4. Ring the insurer and get a claim number. After a widespread event, trades and assessors book out within hours.
5. Then start removing water and wet material. Pump or squeegee out standing water, then get everything wet and porous out of the building.
6. Get air moving. Open everything, run fans, hire a dehumidifier if you can. Air movement across surfaces is what dries a building; closed rooms grow mould.
7. Remove wet plasterboard and insulation to above the tide line if it was submerged. Insulation holds water indefinitely and plasterboard wicks it upward. This is where the “cut it out” advice comes from, and it is correct.
8. Lift or remove floor coverings. Carpet and underlay that has been in floodwater goes out. Timber floors may be salvageable if dried fast and evenly.
What cannot be saved
Accepting this early saves weeks and prevents illness.
Throw out:
- Carpet and underlay that has been in floodwater
- Mattresses, pillows, soft toys, upholstered furniture that was submerged
- Insulation
- Particleboard and MDF furniture, which delaminates
- Any food that contacted floodwater, including tins with damaged seams and anything in a screw-top jar
- Baby bottles, teats and dummies
- Cosmetics and opened toiletries
- Medications that got wet
Possibly salvageable, if dried fast: solid timber furniture, metal, glass, ceramics, sealed plastics, clothing and linen (hot wash), photographs (freeze them wet and deal with them later — a genuine trick that works).
PPE, and why it matters
Floodwater carries sewage, agricultural chemicals, fuel, and sharp debris. Cleanup injuries and infections are common and avoidable.
- Rubber boots with a solid sole
- Waterproof gloves, and a second pair over them for handling debris
- P2 mask — for mould spores and dust once things dry out
- Eye protection
- Long sleeves and trousers
- Cover any cut immediately with a waterproof dressing, and see a doctor about anything that reddens or swells
- Check your tetanus vaccination is current — this is the classic post-flood recommendation and it is worth a call to the GP
Mould, dealt with properly
- Speed beats product. Drying within 48 hours prevents more mould than any spray applied later.
- Small areas of surface mould on hard, non-porous surfaces can be cleaned with detergent and water, then dried thoroughly.
- Porous material with mould in it goes out. You cannot clean mould out of plasterboard, insulation or upholstery.
- Do not dry-brush or vacuum mould with a household vacuum — it aerosolises spores.
- Ventilate while you work, wear the P2 mask, and take breaks.
- Anyone with asthma, allergies, immune suppression, or who is pregnant should not do mould cleanup. This is a genuine health limit, not caution.
- Large infestations are a professional job. Roughly a square metre or more, or anything inside wall cavities.
The insurance sequence
The order matters more than the speed.
- Photograph and film before anything moves.
- Get a claim number and write down who you spoke to and when.
- Keep a running list of damaged items as you remove them, with photographs of each.
- Keep receipts for everything — cleanup, hire, accommodation, replacement essentials. Many policies cover temporary accommodation.
- Do not throw out large items until the insurer confirms you can, unless they are a health hazard — and if you must, photograph them thoroughly first.
- Get the assessor’s report in writing.
- If the claim is denied or delayed unreasonably, use internal dispute resolution first, then AFCA, which is free. See How to Survive Your First Insurance Claim.
- Register with recovery services. State recovery grants, council waste collections and charity assistance all exist after declared events, and all require you to apply.
Thresholds
| Situation | The rule |
|---|---|
| Returning home | Only after official advice. Power off at the board before entering wet areas |
| Before touching anything | Photograph and film every room and the tide line |
| Drying | Within 48 hours. Air movement, not just wiping |
| Submerged plasterboard and insulation | Remove to above the tide line |
| Carpet, mattresses, upholstery, insulation | Discard. Not salvageable |
| Food that contacted floodwater | Discard, including damaged tins |
| Mould over ~1 m², or in wall cavities | Professional remediation |
| Anyone asthmatic, immunosuppressed or pregnant | Not doing mould cleanup |
| Wet electrical items | Not used until an electrician clears them |
What it costs
| Tier | Spend | What it buys |
|---|---|---|
| Free | $0 | The photograph sequence, opening the house, a claim number, applying for recovery grants and council hard-waste collection |
| Solid | ~$150–300 | PPE for two people, a squeegee, buckets, detergent, heavy rubbish bags, a box fan |
| Better | ~$400–900 | Dehumidifier hire, industrial fan hire, a wet-vac, tarpaulins |
| Professional | $2,000–15,000+ | Restoration contractors, mould remediation, replastering. Usually insured, which is exactly why the evidence sequence matters |
The drill: the go-back kit
Put this together before the season, so returning does not require shopping.
Rubber boots · waterproof gloves · work gloves · P2 masks · safety glasses · a torch · a first aid kit with waterproof dressings · heavy rubbish bags · a permanent marker · a notepad · your phone charged, with a power bank · your insurance policy number on paper.
Then, on the day: photograph first, everything, before you pick up a single thing.
Frequently asked questions
How quickly does mould grow after a flood?
Mould can establish within about 48 hours in warm, damp conditions. Getting the building dry inside that window — with air movement and dehumidification — prevents far more mould than any treatment applied afterwards.
What has to be thrown out after a flood?
Carpet and underlay, mattresses, pillows, soft toys, upholstered furniture, insulation, particleboard furniture, any food that contacted floodwater including damaged tins, baby bottles and teats, opened toiletries, and wet medications.
Can I clean mould myself?
Small areas of surface mould on hard surfaces, yes — detergent and water, then dry thoroughly, wearing a P2 mask and gloves. Porous material with mould in it must be discarded, and anything over about a square metre or inside wall cavities is a professional job.
What PPE do I need for flood cleanup?
Rubber boots, waterproof gloves, a P2 mask, eye protection and long clothing. Cover cuts with waterproof dressings and check your tetanus vaccination is current, because floodwater carries sewage and chemicals.
What should I do before cleaning up, for insurance?
Photograph and film every room, the tide line and every damaged item, including inside cupboards and the garage, before you move anything. Get a claim number, keep a running list with photos as you remove things, and keep all receipts.
What if my claim is denied?
Use the insurer’s internal dispute resolution process first, then escalate to AFCA, which is free to consumers. Keep every piece of correspondence and a record of who you spoke to and when.
